a little love letter for Jill & Gordon

Firenze.


Jill & Gordon — I'm so excited you're going to Florence! Here are my very favorite places: the spots I keep coming back to, the little secrets, and a few things I wish someone had told me. Everything's highlighted so you can spot the must-dos at a glance. Wander slowly, eat everything, and enjoy every single minute. ❤️

— with all our love, Ximena & Fadil

i.

Getting Around

Wear your comfiest shoes — truly.

You can find a cab to take you from the airport or station to your hotel, but inside the old city taxis aren't very common. The good news: from the center, almost everything is a 15–20 minute walk at most.

Because of all that walking, I really recommend only very comfortable shoes — not even small heels. The cobblestones are charming but not perfectly flat, so flat and cushioned is the way to go.

ii.

Restaurants

Sit-down dinners worth lingering over.

My favoriteReserve ahead

La Giostra

My absolute favorite restaurant in Florence — very local and special. The pastas are amazing — the carbonara and the pear ravioli especially — and any steak here is done Florence-style, properly.

Go for dinner, at night — and you'll see exactly why. ❤️ Be sure to make reservations in advance.

Osteria Santo Spirito

Right on the lovely Piazza Santo Spirito. The baked truffle gnocchi is the one everyone raves about — order it.

Osteria Pastella

A lively spot where they put on a bit of a show with the pasta. Fun and delicious.

Reserve ahead

Trattoria ZàZà

Amazing pasta at a really good price, in a fun, artsy atmosphere.

Please reserve — the lines here get huge!

Buca dell'Orafo

Come here for the artichoke tortino — a lovely little baked artichoke dish.

iii.

Quick Bites & Paninis

For lunch on the go, or a snack between sights.

All'Antico Vinaio

It's everywhere now (even in New York!), but it was a local secret for years. Anything with their truffle, pecorino, or artichoke spread is wonderful.

My tip: order just one to try, and ask them to cut it in half so you can share.

Schiacciateria di Neri

Another great local panini shop. The "D'Alterio" is really good.

Semel

Newer, but everyone's been talking about it. Get the pear with truffle.

⭐ Fadil's favoriteOpen late

Gusta Pizza

It looks like a fast-food spot, but it's actually a great local one — and there's an easy-to-find location near the Duomo. Always open until late. This one's Fadil's favorite pizza spot!

Spinza

Roman-style flatbread. The one with mozzarella, truffle, and honey is a must.

iv.

Coffee & Gelato

Sweet little breaks.

Vivoli Gelato

Known for their affogatos — the pistachio is amazing. A perfect afternoon break from the heat, and it's also the oldest gelateria in Florence.

Giacosa

An award-winning coffee shop. Lovely for a proper Italian coffee.

v.

Markets & Sights

Where to wander and what to see.

The Leather Market

You'll see leather and silk stalls all over the city — but if something catches your eye, wait and buy it at the Leather Market instead. Everything is far cheaper and often better quality. There are wonderful little shops tucked inside, too.

Don't be shy to negotiate — whatever price they tell you, offer half or lower. 🥹

The Local Food Market

Very close to the Leather Market. Wander the stalls and nibble at a few different stations. I once had an incredible Bistecca alla Fiorentina at a stall here — one of the best I've ever had.

Ponte Vecchio

Fun for browsing jewelry along the famous bridge — though be aware it's become more touristy lately.

Palazzo Vecchio

If you're in the mood for a museum, I really recommend it — just know it's much bigger than it looks from outside! Afterward, walk around the piazza below and look at what's written on the walls. 👀

vi.

Rooftops & Aperitivo

For a drink with a view as the afternoon turns to evening.

Loggia Rooftop — Piazza Santo Spirito

So pretty for afternoon drinks.

Bonus: if you're there on a Sunday, there's a lovely local market in Piazza Santo Spirito.

B-Roof — Grand Hotel Baglioni

Head up to the rooftop on the 5th floor — the view is beautiful and it's not too touristy. Conveniently near the train station.

Cosimo

A restaurant too — the food isn't the highlight, but it's a cute, relaxed rooftop area for a drink.

Angel Rooftop

Another lovely option for drinks up high.

Terrazza Rossini

A pretty terrace worth a stop.

Best Duomo views

Hotel Villani

The best Duomo views of the bunch — perfect for a quick drink and aperitivo.

vii.

Shopping

Leather, gold, and a few special finds.

Giunti Odeon

Just a fun place to step into — a bookshop set inside a beautiful old cinema. It's new and worth a peek.

Cellini Gold

A lovely gold shop with more locally sourced pieces — and not the tourist prices you'll find on Ponte Vecchio.

Scuola del Cuoio (the Leather School of Florence)

Follow all the signs until you reach the back — it's the historic home of leather-making in the city. They can hand-stamp your initials, too (a bit pricier than other places, but special).

Bottega del Giglio

Personalized leather goods with your initials, very close to Ponte Vecchio.

Good to know: a few doors down is "Da Firenze," owned by the father — this one tends to be more fully stocked.

Toni & Co

Known for their woven technique, similar to the Bottega Veneta look.

Misuri

Really nice leather jackets, plus bags with beautiful stamped designs.

Luciano

Also known for the woven leather technique (that Bottega-style weave).

a little map of

Firenze.

for Jill & Gordon · with love, from Ximena & Fadil